Dear valued guest,
We would like to offer assistance in planning your trip to the various sites throughout Billy the Kid Country. To make your journey easier and more efficient, we have provided tabs below for your use to learn more about your destination. Additionally, we will continue to update our information and locations in the near future.
For optimal results, we recommend utilizing the drop down menu at the top of this page or by clicking the links in the tabs to view additional photos and information about each destination.
Thank you for choosing Billy the Kid Country. We look forward to helping you have a successful and enjoyable trip.
To book a tour click the link!
https://palsofbillythekidhistoricalsociety.com/lincoln-tour-guide/
Tunstall Murder Site
On February 18, 1878 John H. Tunstall was murdered south of Lincoln
-The Tunstall Murder Site-
by Brandon Dickson
Surprisingly, it is not that difficult to get to the location of John Tunstall’s murder. An easy turn off of US 70 near Glencoe, New Mexico will get you there. From US 70 turn South onto Glencoe Loop. Then turn (South) onto Coe Canyon Road. Continue down the road until you come to an intersection which is Tunstall Canyon Road. (There is an old rock house on the right as you make this turn). The road starts as gravel and quickly turns more rocky as the road starts to climb uphill.
Tunstall Canyon Road becomes Forest Road 443. Continue south on this road for just over 4 miles. (Do Not Take Any Trails That Vere To The Left, stay to the Right). A 4 Wheel Drive vehicle is not required to travel this road. However I would recommend no low clearance vehicles. The road has some deep ruts and occasionally large rocks along the way. This stretch of the road is winding, rocky and may have a cow or two in the middle of it. Along the way you will pass markers Forest Road 443A and a little further along the way a marker Forest Road 443B.
Continue ahead through the cattle guard and down the road which by this point in the journey has become smooth gravel and easy to drive. You will pass a marker for Forest RD 443C.
As the road goes back up the hill, pay attention. The marker can be missed easily.
Stop at Marker 9019D. It marks the trail down to the murder site. Go North down the trail about 300 yards. This trail is usable by walking on foot or on horseback. It is very rocky for the first 150 yards, be aware. Along this trail there are tree stumps with faded red arrows helping to point the way, these are difficult to see and very weathered.
Simply follow the trail, you are headed the right way. The path will begin to wind left down the hill. As the road starts to level, there is a well worn trail that cuts off to the West. Take this trail about 80 yards into the trees. Tunstall’s marker is visible from the main trail, it will be on your left in the trees as you walk downhill along the road.
The Tunstall murder site is very quiet. It is a lonely place. Indeed if one is there in the early evening it is possible to see wild turkeys, relatives of the same ones that Tunstall’s men chased after. For many adventurous historians, it is a must see. To feel the ground and see the terrain and understand the situation as it was then at that very place, that is an adventure worth taking.
https://palsofbillythekidhistoricalsociety.com/the-murder-of-john-tunstall/
Blazer's Mill
Blazers MIll
Blazer’s Mill is Private Property. Please do not walk onto the property without permission!
You should be able to get a view from the roadside.
History of this site coming soon!
https://palsofbillythekidhistoricalsociety.com/blazers-mill/
https://palsofbillythekidhistoricalsociety.com/blazers-mill-shootout/
White Oaks
White Oaks
White Oaks, Memoirs of a Ghost Town
By: J. Young
In the heart of New Mexico, about 5 miles Northeast of Carrizozo, between the Jicarilla Mountains and Capitan Mountain at 6,329 ft. in elevation is where the boomtown, White Oaks, once blossomed.
White Oaks experienced a surge in population in 1879 when Gold Lode was found in the Jicarilla Mountains. The town’s Main Street saw a significant increase in businesses, most of which were housed in temporary structures like wood shacks and tents. With the town’s growth, these structures were soon replaced with more durable materials such as rock, adobe, and brick. White Oaks became known for its unique structures, including pitched-roof homes and Victorian-style houses that provided a modern edge to the area. Furthermore, pitched-roof homes were an efficient means of collecting rainwater, thereby increasing its popularity. Overall, the history and architectural evolution of White Oaks is a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of the residents who helped create a vibrant community amidst challenging circumstances.
During the late 19th century, White Oaks boomed as a prosperous town in the territory thanks to increased mining operations. A new mill which was established below the new town supplied water from White Oak spring, while coal deposits nearby provided steam power for the mine and mills. A reliable stagecoach service was established to Carthage and Fort Stanton for a fee ranging from 5-15 dollars. In addition, other businesses such as saloons, blacksmith shops, general stores, hotels, dentists, physicians, and law offices were established. The main street of the town also saw the installation of a new water line and the establishment of the first newspaper called the Golden Era in 1881. The town’s prominent buildings included the Bonnell Opera House, Hewitt Block Building which hosted Exchange Bank, and, the ever famous Little Casino Saloon, Anderson and Fredericks saloon, Joseph Biggs blacksmith, Bond and Stewart general store, J A Brother’s Hotel, Ganton Frenchie blacksmith, B.A. Shapley dentist, M. Wardell physician, the brown store, the Bonnell Opera House and the Hewitt block building which housed the Exchange Bank on the first floor, with several law offices upstairs.
The town’s early years were defined by the establishment of a Watermill which effectively supplied water to its inhabitants. The discovery of a nearby coal deposit ushered in a new era, as steam power became available to drive the mill and power the mine. During this time, The Golden Era, a newspaper company was established. Though it lasted for only a short period, it served the area well until other newspapers came to the fore. While saloons and brothels were prevalent in the area, most of the citizens hailed from respectable Eastern backgrounds; as reflected in the town’s values, which prioritized decency and respectability. Therefore, it wouldn’t be far-fetched to say that the town’s slogan could have been “We do not tolerate scum.”
After the death of her husband during the Lincoln County War, Susan Mcsween found a safe haven at White Oaks. With financial assistance from John Tunstall’s family in England, she was able to rebuild her life and even served as the executor of Tunstall’s estate. In 1880, she wed George Barber, and was gifted 40 cattle by Chisum. After divorcing Barber, Susan continued to grow her wealth by acquiring more than 1158 acres of land bordering the Mescalero Apache Indian Reservation and the Three Rivers Ranch. With over 5000 head of cattle, as well as a small vein of silver, she became one of the wealthiest people in the area. In 1902, she sold her ranch and moved into town, remaining in White Oaks until her passing in 1931.
Madam Vranish was a colorful character in the history of White Oaks. She arrived in town with her three daughters after a man claimed to be the treasurer of a neighboring County and fell in love with her. Despite their brief relationship, Madam promised to marry him if he provided for her family. They left for Roswell, and the wedding ceremony was performed two days later. However, the groom accused her of robbing him of $3,500 on their wedding night, and she was arrested but released on her own recognizance until the day of trial. She then visited the treasurer and informed him that if he pressed charges, she would accuse him of stealing $3,500 of County funds. Madam was never brought to trial and later established her family’s business at the little Casino.
The Hoyle Castle, situated on the southern part of the town, was an exemplary construction of Victorian architecture. The house was crafted using high-quality stone and brick and boasted of beautifully crafted stained glass windows, hand-carved pine, and a top-notch lead pipe water system. The house was replete with exquisite decorations. Its owner, Mr. Hoyle, had built the house for his beloved wife-to-be. However, after completion, he sent for her to White Oaks, but she inexplicably rejected both him and the house, and subsequently left. Despite this unexpected turn of events, Mr. Hoyle continued to reside in the house for several years before eventually moving out.
Dan Dietrich, a friend of Billy the Kid, owned a Livery stable in White Oaks not far from Billy the Kid’s attorney Ira Leonard was located and resided. An investigation began when Billy Wilson sold his stable to the Dietrichs and was later found to be using counterfeit money. Agent Wild was dispatched to Lincoln county to conduct an investigation. As part of his investigation, Agent Wild visited White Oaks disguised as a miner. He discreetly gathered intelligence on Wilson’s whereabouts and activities within the area. Local law enforcement was informed of Agent Wild’s visit and provided assistance when necessary. Dietrich’s Stable can be seen in the first image below.
During the late 1890s, the Santa Fe and the El Paso-Northeastern railroads planned to extend the railroad to White Oaks. However, landowners and businessmen in town requested high prices for their land, hindering negotiations. Despite this, the railroad could not wait for prolonged negotiations and laid the track South of Carrizozo.Unfortunately, the peak of prosperity was over and the mines began to run dry of gold and coal. Mining production slowed and the gold market collapsed, resulting in a decrease in the population of White Oaks. By 1910, only around 200 residents remained.
The town of White Oaks is rich with fascinating history, easily detectable by those willing to listen to its whispers. The monuments constructed by skilled hands and the remnants of the civilization that once thrived here add to the depth of this town’s character. Exploring the town allows visitors to touch roughened bricks and envision a time when the windows were filled with eager students. Hidden within the desert foliage surrounding the town are the abandoned gold mines that once sustained it. However, due to unfortunate greed among the landowners who refused to sell an area for the train, the town was unable to prosper and inevitably fell into decline.
For more on White Oaks…
https://palsofbillythekidhistoricalsociety.com/white-oaks-new-mexico/
https://palsofbillythekidhistoricalsociety.com/the-demise-of-james-carlyle/
Silver City
Silver City
Silver City
By J. Young
At first the Silver City area was home to the Mogollon and Salado people around 1300 a.d. who made their homes on the side of a cliff at the Gila cliff dwellings. The site still remains to view to this day.
Sometime over the next 500 years the Chiricahua and warm springs Apache made the valley area at southern slopes of the Pinos Altos mountain range their home, near to where Silver City now sits. Geronimo was said to have been born here in 1829. The elevation is just under 5,900 ft. The area resembles both desert and mountain areas, known as a high desert. The area here is also known to have the darkest skies in the nation, making it perfect for stargazing.
After Copper was discovered under a giant rock formation known as The Kneeling Nun, and other spots, Spanish folks moved in large numbers, displacing the Apache. The Spanish army moved in and set up a base nearby known as Fort Santa Rita Del Cobre.
The settlers had set up the largest open pit copper mine in the world. Later taken over by John Murchison and later shared with a company called The Chino-Kennecott mining co.
The new settlers named the area “La Ciénega de San Vicente” (The Marsh or oasis of Saint Vincent.).
Later large populations of Anglos began moving into the area after the Gadsden purchase which gave the U.S. – southern New Mexico and Arizona which included La Ciénega de San Vicente.
In 1870 a large deposit of silver ore was discovered on a hill just west of Army Captain John Bullard’s farm. As well as gold in various places around La Ciénega de San Vicente.
The Anglos settlement kicked the town and mining business into high gear and La Ciénega de San Vicente became known as and renamed Silver City and was officially founded in the summer of 1870. Captain John M. Bullard and his brother James designed the layout of the streets of Silver City as a grid pattern with main roads running North to South.
At first a large tent city was set up for living quarters while they built more permanent homes. Knowing the town was set in a large Valley the men built their homes and businesses up high as the sidewalks.
But Mr. Bullard never lived to see the beginning of the success he had started because he was killed in a confrontation with a local Apache tribe less than a year later.
Silver City established a government and schooling system, which is the oldest in the state to date. A post office was established in 1878, incorporating the city. The city was in agreement at the time for all men to commit to two days labor for street and town maintenance per month.
The high altitude, climate and the many surrounding geothermal hot springs around Silver City became a healing rehabilitation for consumptives. It was also known as “The world’s sanatorium” or “A consumptive paradise” calling Silver City “a place air conditioned by nature.”
Later around 1900 a sanatorium area with dozens of small homes would be built for the sick.
Hauling ore in wagons from the mines was becoming a heavy burden and a railway was built in 1886 to haul the ore from the mines.
In 1907 one of the trains hauling gold and silver ore was not properly fitted with air brakes and became a runaway and crashed causing the death of a railroad fireman and a representative from the locomotive company.
Just before that in 1893 Silver City’s “Normal school” was built and 70 years later its name was changed to The Western New Mexico University. 
In 1895 Silver City suffered a bad flood in the darkness of the night. Simply building the sidewalks and building on an elevation was not enough. Between 9 and midnight on July 23rd the area was soaked by heavy rainfall and as the rain ran downhill off of the surrounding mountains, the water came raging down main street knocking down some of the weaker structures and causing mass panic and chaos.
Afterwards the town rebuilt the main street, dug a canal and a bridge over the road as well as a dam to divert high waters from the main street.
A heavy rainfall caused high waters again in early August 1903. The siphon at the dam was put into use and it worked well. However a few days later another raging rainstorm hit wiping out most of Main street.
Silver City was always a rough and rugged town dating back to the 1870s with a high crime rate.
In 1874 Grant County hired a sheriff named Harvey Whitehill. Sheriff Whitehill was able to get the town’s crime rate under control and he also became the first lawman to arrest Billy the Kid.
Later in 1878 Silver City was getting pretty rough again and hired Dangerous Dan Tucker as Marshal and he really did clean up the town. Tucker never hesitated during a confrontation and pulled the trigger down on many criminals, putting them in the dirt. Tucker grew an admiring reputation and was idolized by the local youth.
If you are visiting Silver City today check out The Silver City Museum and the big ditch that was once main street. Check out the visitors center as well. They have built a replica cabin at the location they think was where The Antrim family lived. The cabin was used in the movie “The Missing”
For more on Silver City…
https://palsofbillythekidhistoricalsociety.com/silver-city-new-mexico/
Ruidoso
By J.Young
On a busy street known as Suddereth Drive in what is now Ruidoso, used to be nothing but an old trail with a gristmill along the river. It is The Old Dowlins Mill.
The mill is in a beautiful valley at an elevation of about 6,9020 feet. Water once flowed from the Ruidoso and Carazo Creek to run the water mill and power the grinding stones, turning grains into flour or wheat middlings.
Around 1868 Dowlin’s Mill was constructed. It was just a couple years later and the area was destroyed by flooding. The wheel of the mill was saved and Captain Dowling rebuilt the operation a little further up, still using the waters from the Ruidoso to turn the wheels.
Captain Paul Dowlin served at Fort Stanton with LG Murphy and liked. Like many of his fellow officers, Captain Dowlin settled in the area and after building the gristmill with his brother William, business began and was called Paul Dowlin and Brother. The gristmill was pumped out grains and flour and supplied to Fort Stanton.
When LG Murphy and Dolan were forced out of the Army at Fort Stanton, the Dowlin brothers took over their business affairs at the Fort, including using the mill to pump out big profits at Fort Stanton’s trading post.
On April 28th 1877, Captain Paul Dowlin became jealous when he suspected his employee, Jerry Dillon was sleeping with his wife and fired him.
The disgruntled Dillon later returned to Dowlin’s Mill and confronted Dowlin outside his home. Dowlin tried to jerk his gun out, but it got stuck and Jerry shot Dowlin in the head. Killing him.
A neighbor, Frank Coe remembers that day, “Jerry came down to my place and told me what he had done. He laid out at a spring up in the cañón with no intentions of leaving until he met with Dowlins brother, to come to some sort of settlement over The killing. I took Will up there and kept them from getting into a shooting match and mediated between them.” The agreement was made and Dillon left New Mexico for Texas.
After his brother’s death Will inherited his brother’s half of Dowlins Mill estate as well as became guardian of Paul’s children.
Within weeks, Will sold half the Mills interests to Frank Lesnett. Frank also served at Fort Stanton and was just married in Chicago and was eager to bring his new bride to the territory. The couple would have seven children; Irvin, Jennie, Edith, Frank, Milton, Bessie and Georgia Lesnett.
In 1879, Will Dowlin formed a partnership with John C. Delaney. They purchased the Old Murphy store from Thomas Catron in Lincoln and it’s mercantile establishment. In December of 1880 they went bankrupt.
Will Dowlin, sold the rest of his interests at The Mill and he, his wife and the children moved to Las Cruces and soon afterwards divorced. Will died in an insane asylum in Pueblo Colorado in 1884.
On August 23rd of 1877, cattle Baron John Chisum and crew were driving a herd West into Arizona territory. The men stopped at the Mill to camp, Chisum’s cowboys got a hold of a supply of whiskey and one of them named Johnny Ewer shot himself in the leg and had to be rushed to the hospital at Fort Stanton. Also that night another Chisum cowboy, Raymond Garcia AKA Capitan, got drunk and shot J.M. Franklin in the back killing him. Garcia ran away but was caught by a mob and lynched.
As the Lesnetts settled in, it remained known as Dowlins Mill. Mrs. Lesnett remembers coming to New Mexico from Chicago, where she was waiting for her husband to get them settled;
“My husband met me at Fort Stanton. He was driving two big bay horses to a Studebaker The horses were named “Bill Johnson, and “Bill Dowlin ”. How happy I was when my husband met me and we drove up the beautiful canyon toward the White mountains. It was in May 1877. We went by way of the Pat Garrett Ranch, which was located on Little Creek, and on by Alto and down Gavelan Canyon to the Ruidoso. When we arrived at Dowlin’s Mill I saw some blood in the front yard. Frank told me that a man named Jerry Dalton had shot and killed Paul Dowlin the day before. Dalton left the country and was never heard of again. My new home was a four room log house, with a big fireplace in the front room, which we called the parlor. We used kerosene lamps and candles for lights. A man by the name of Johnnie Patton cooked for us. We boarded several of the men who worked in the mills and helped on the farms. At that time we had a grist mill and a saw mill. All the surrounding country brought their grain to our mill to be ground. We used oxen to haul our logs for the saw mill.We raised hogs and sold them to Fort Stanton. We raised our own feed to fatten the hogs and in the fall of the year the farm hands would butcher about a hundred hogs at a time. I would get some of the neighbor women to come and help render out the lard. We used a big iron pot and rendered the lard out in the yard. I raised lots of turkeys and chickens and sold them at Fort Stanton. I was always so afraid of the wild beasts that roamed around in the hills. I remember one time, my husband and the cook had to go to Lincoln to court, and left Mrs. Johnson with me and my three children, to stay alone at night. One night after we had all gone to bed, Mrs. Johnson and I heard something prowling around the house. We lay real still and listened, for we did not know whether it was Indians or wild beasts. We did not have to wait long to know, for it was a mountain lion and when he got up real near the house he let out a roar. We almost died of fright for we were afraid that he would break the windows and come in after us. We moved all the furniture and barricaded the doors and windows. The lion kept walking around the house and roaring. After a while he left and went down to the cow pen and killed one of our milk pen calves. I told my husband when he came home the next day, that I would never stay home with just women folks again, and I never did while we lived on the ranch. The Mescalero Indians from the Mescalero Reservation used to come to our place to trade, or to bring some grains for milling. My husband had a small store and was postmaster at Ruidoso. I saw four buck Indians have a fight in front of our store one time. They pulled each other’s hair out and fought with quirts. They fought for about an hour. I was in the store and was afraid to go to our house, although the Indians never did bother us. I was awfully afraid of them, especially when I first came to The Ruidoso. I was always good to the Indians. I gave them doughnuts and cookies when they came to the Mill and it was not long until all the Indians were my friends. Geronomo used to come to our place quite often. Once he brought me a big wild turkey and another time he gave me a nice Indian basket. I gave the basket to Mrs. Hiram Dow and she still has it. There was usually a crowd of young people at the Mill and we used to ride horseback fifteen and twenty miles to a dance, and wouldn’t ever think anything of it.“
“We lived on the Ruidoso all during the Lincoln County War but my husband never took sides with either faction. I did give Billy the Kid several meals when he would come to our place, but my husband never knew anything about it, for he had warned us not to feed any of the men from either side, but I did it anyway as I felt so sorry for them when they said they were hungry.”
On one occasion there is a wild rumor that Billy was at the mill one day and Billy was forced to hide in one of Mrs. Lesnetts flour barrels. But from who has been unclear to me. Was it her husband, Mr. Lesnett? Was he hiding from Dolan men? Was he hiding from the lawmen or soldiers? I guess this one is lost…
The Mill, it had become a social gathering spot or plaza for the small village of settlers that grew around it. There was a proposal to switch the county seat from Lincoln to Dowlins, but it did not pass in the legislation.
In 1884 a local paper published an ad for a leap year ball at the mill. Some folks believed that Billy the Kid attended a baile here once or twice.
The Lesnetts sold the property in 1887 to the Crees, who owned the V-V ranch to the north of Dowlins.
The old Mill became surrounded with a large population over time and became the birthplace of Ruidoso, “the oasis of New Mexico” is what I refer to it as. The Crees sold the property in the 1940s to Carmon and Leona Mae Phillips.
In 2013 the Mill was the oldest structure in Ruidoso and was placed on the New Mexico Registry of Cultural Properties, and then to the federal historic registry. The old Mill served as an art gallery, a museum and after a small stage was built, it also was used as the center of small events.
In 2017 a gas leak caused the Mill to explode and was destroyed.
Fort Stanton
Fort Stanton
By J. Young
Just up the Bonito River from Lincoln at an elevation of 6200 feet are the splendid remains of an exhausted old haunting known as Fort Stanton. A long time ago, just before wagon roads and blazed trails abraded New Mexico, the land was spread out and untamed. It was loaded with deadly vermin, bears, mountain lions and snakes. The land belonged to Northern Mexico just 7 years prior, and in 1855 The U.S. built many Forts and bases in the new territory to survey, map and develop it.
One of the Forts was Fort Stanton. It was named Fort Stanton, after Captain Henry Stanton, who was previously killed in the area by a local tribe known as the Mescalero Apache. The location of Fort Stanton was so remote that it was 150 miles from any town. During that summer of 1855, hundreds of soldiers began construction of Fort Stanton. Upon arrival, they were well supplied to build, but only had 3 months of rations. They quickly blazed some trails and soon wagons were able to roll in and out of the area. The caves at Fort Stanton were discovered and first explored by the first dragoons stationed at Fort Stanton In 1855. They were likely equipped with .44 caliber pistols, heavy whale oil lamps, ropes and canteens.
Word began to spread about a beautiful land protected by the army and soon many settlers came.
At first Fort Stanton only had two big houses surrounded by a large Adobe wall and in 1861 the Civil War broke out and the Army at Fort Stanton left fleeing from the Confederate soldiers moving in. They tried to burn their Fort before they fled but a quick rain extinguished the fire. The Confederates then occupied Fort Stanton for about a month until The Apache ran them out.
In 1862 Kit Carson with Union troops retook Fort Stanton. Carson was fond of an officer at Stanton. His name was LG Murphy. Murphy was praised in more than one report to headquarters from Kit Carson.
After Congress passed the Army Organization Act in 1866, six all black cavalry and infantry regiments were created, and many were stationed at Fort Stanton. Buffalo Soldiers was a name given to the Black Cavalry by the Native American tribes.
On April 11th 1866 LG Murphy became the commanding officer at Fort Stanton as well as commander of company G, first New Mexico cavalry. In 1867 he was also promoted to Major.
After LG Murphy’s service was up in the Army, he obtained a federal license in order to operate a business on Federal property. The firm known as Murphy and Fritz company operated out of a large Adobe structure flat roofed and rectangular. It was 186 ft long and 81 ft wide, built around an enclosed central courtyard that was only accessible through two gates. In its interior it consisted of private rooms, a billiard room, dining room, a large beer room, an office and much more
In the 1880’s, The Buffalo soldiers from Stanton were sent on a mission to help pursue Geronimo and his Apache bands. Many of the Apache riding with Geranimo were the Mescalero who had left the Fort Stanton reservation.
By 1890 the Indian wars were over and Fort Stanton was reduced to about 15 soldiers. In 1896 the post was officially decommissioned.
Three years after Stanton was closed, in 1899 the US public health service acquired it for use as a merchant Marine hospital exclusively for the treatment of tuberculosis on the orders of President Mckinley. At the time, fresh air and sunshine were the only known cures for tuberculosis, and New Mexico altitude and weather was believed to be the cure. Hundreds of tent homes were set up and Fort Stanton’s name was changed to the Public Health Service Hospital. Many new buildings were constructed including a hospital, stables and living quarters for the families. Also a large farm was added nearby with the patients working the fields, as well as a golf course, baseball fields and a theater. After the tuberculosis pandemic came to an end, Fort Stanton was no longer needed as a sanatorium.
The nearby cemetery on a hill overlooking the Fort is mesmerizing with hundreds of white crosses. The cemetery grew to include veterans of other services as well as the Merchant Marines, and other TB patients.
In 1939 World War 2 erupted involving several countries. About 400 miles off the East coast of the U.S., the SS Columbus, a luxury liner, was sunk in December 1939. The German crew aboard were captured by U.S. forces and moved to Angel Island California. Then they were moved inland to Fort Stanton, New Mexico. Fort Stanton was picked because there were abandoned buildings from the civilian conservation groups adjacent to the Fort which could be used as well as the hospital. The location also ensured isolation. The guards chosen were members of the United States border patrol. The first POWS were tasked with constructing buildings, such as four barracks, a kitchen, a mess hall, laundry room, restrooms and washrooms, officers quarters and a medical dispensary. Also added were a garden, a recreation hall and swimming pool. In the beginning the camp resembled more of a town than it did a prison and the first the Germans were treated as trustees, they were able to roam the old Fort freely and even take short hikes. It changed overnight when Japan attacked America at Pearl Harbor in December 1941. The POWS at Fort Stanton were then on lockdown and guard towers and barbed wire fencing were put up.
A few prisoners made a plan to escape. In the darkness of night on November 1st 1942 four German pows; Bruno Dathe, Willy Michel, Hermann Runner and Johannes Grantz snuck out the South border of Fort Stanton, undetected. Later the next day it was discovered they were absent and a large manhunt was conducted by the police in New Mexico and Texas. A rancher named Bob Boyce spotted the escapees about 2 days later and notified Deputy Joe Nelson. A posse of men then trailed the Germans 14 miles south of the camp on a hillside in the Lincoln national Forest. They were caught off guard while on a grassy Hill near a stream. One of the prisoners was armed with an automatic pistol and after a quick shootout, one of the Germans was wounded. They surrendered and were taken back to Fort Stanton. The event made the papers.
From the 1960s until 1995 Fort Stanton was used as a state hospital for the developmentally handicapped. For a short time after that it was used as a low security women’s prison and also housed many drug and alcohol rehabilitators. In 1997 a nonprofit corporation was created to save the national monument as a historical site. On August 9th 2007, lieutenant governor Diane Denish and Governor Bill Richards proclaimed the establishment of Fort Stanton a historical site. Fort Stanton is now managed by the New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs and Bureau of Land Management.
In 2001 it was re-discovered by members of the Fort Stanton cave study project that Snowy River Cave has more than 40 miles of caves underneath Fort Stanton.
Do you believe in ghosts? There’s been rumors about the old army Fort being haunted. Some reports say you get a “creepy” feeling when you’re walking alone on the grounds, especially at night. Employees that have worked at Fort Stanton have noted some of the occurrences. Some report seeing shadowy figures and others hearing crying. Another report says a janitor quit after his first day on the job after he believed he saw what he describes as El Diablo.
If you are visiting the old Fort, or its surroundings, bring a camera! There is plenty of preserved history to capture, as well as more than 100 miles of trails for biking, hiking and horseback riding with a camping area. Don’t forget to hit the visitors center!
Fort Stanton
Fort Sumner
Old Fort Sumner
Old Fort Sumner
By Jason Young
Fort Sumner is located northeast of the center of De Baca County on the North side of the Pecos river sitting at an elevation of 4,032 feet above sea level.
In October, 1862, Congress authorized the establishment of the military Fort Sumner at the center of Bosque Redondo A 1600 square mile Reservation.The reservation was in the works
After accusations of vicious attacks and raids on white and spanish settlers. The army post, Fort Sumner, was named after General Edwin Vose Sumner. A union army general whose nickname was bullhead. Legend has it a musket ball once bounced off his head during battle. . General Sumner died on March 21, 1863 of a fever and was buried in Syracuse New Yorks; Oakwood Cemetery. His bravery and leadership during the civil war gave him the honor of the forts name.
Bosque Redondo reservation was to be the first Indian reservation west of Oklahoma, with plans to turn the Apache and Navajo Indians into farmers using irrigation canals from the Pecos River
To accomplish their plan, the U.S. Army waged war on the Mescalero Apache and Navajo Indian tribes, destroying their fields, orchards, houses, and livestock. The Apache and Navajo, who had survived the army attacks, were then starved into submission. During a final standoff, the Navajo surrendered to Kit Carson and his troops in January, 1864. Carson ordered the destruction of their property and organized the Long Walk to the Bosque Redondo reservation, already occupied by Mescalero Apache
However, from the beginning the reservation was unsuccessful due to poor planning on the part of the government, the reservation itself because of its poor water and minimal provisions of firewood Also the Navajo and Apache had a lifetime history of warfare. Once the Navajo were placed with the Apache on the same reservation, one can only imagine the conflicts that arose between the two tribes.
The Pecos water caused severe intestinal problems in the tribes and disease ran rampant. Armyworms destroyed the corn crop, and the wood supply at the Bosque Redondo was soon depleted. Most of the Mescalero Apache eluded their military guards and abandoned the reservation in late 1865. The Navajo stayed for another three years. The United States Government recognized that their plan had failed. In June, 1868 the remaining Navajo returned to their former homes and shortly thereafter, Fort Sumner closed forever.
In 1869 the old Fort Sumner buildings were sold to Lucien B. Maxwell, the former owner of the largest land grant in U.S. History. After paying $5,000 for portions of the surrounding land and army buildings, Maxwell relocated his family from northeast New Mexico and reconstructed one of the officers’ living quarters into a 20 room house. Lucien Maxwell soon turned over his affairs to his son Peter and passed away a few years later. The buildings were leased out to folks for living or business. Residents including the Guiterez sisters and the Bowdres. Business owners like Bob Hargrove in whose saloon Joe Grant was killed by Billy the kid. Or in Beaver Smith’s saloon where outside, Billy the Kid supposedly had his famous photo taken with his winchester.
On July 14, 1881, close to midnight in the front left corner room a shot rang out in the darkness Sheriff Pat Garrett and 2 possemen, John.w. poe and Kp mckinney found Billy the Kid, allegedly ending his life with a shot through the chest.
Billy the Kid was buried in the old military cemetery at Fort Sumner along with two of his PALS – Charlie Bowdre and Tom O’Folliard.
In 1903 a railway was considered, The bridge crew knew they had a big job ahead of them. One of the great floods of the Pecos River in 1903 demonstrated to the Railroad crew that the bridge on the Pecos would have to be strong and high.
On Sept. 30, 1904, another Pecos River flood submerged the Old Fort Sumner Military Cemetery four feet under the current. Many markers and stones were moved or lost. Even Roswell and Carlsbad suffered the flood waters.
The Landry Sharp Construction Co. established a large camp at the river to begin building a bridge in 1905. Some 300 railroad bridge workers came to do the job. The nearest good water was the Sunnyside Springs, about a mile north of the rails. There had been a post office, stage stop and sheep trading center at these springs from 1878 until 1882. The second Sunnyside beside the tracks was a post office from 1905 until 1910.
When the railroad began to be built in the area in 1905, the 150 residents of Fort Sumter began to move their businesses and buildings some seven miles to the northwest to the settlement of Sunnyside. The towns merged to become one town called Fort Sumner.
In the 1920s the transcontinental airline built an airfield in Fort Sumner as part of its coast-to-coast air passenger network, but the site was abandoned when the airline’s ambitious plans collapsed in the great depression. The airfield was reopened by the u.s. army as a training base during world war 2 After the war, the base became the Fort Sumner Airport and was chosen as a launch site for nasa’s high altitude balloon program
Today at Old Fort Sumner you can take a stroll on the nature trail along the historic Pecos River, visit the Bosque Redondo memorial museum, check out old post cemetery where Billy, Tom and Charlie’s gravestones lie and on the way out stop at “new” Fort Sumner and see the historical WPA Murals located in the De Baca County Courthouse and visit the Billy the Kid museum!
If you are visiting today check out the Post Cemetery, the replica bunk house, the rebuilt structural lay out of some of the old army buildings as well as a nature trail lining up along The Pecos. The Bosque Redondo Memorial building is also now on site and is a neat quick walk through as well as a place to cool off.
Before leaving the area head up to the new Fort Sumner and visit the Billy the Kid Museum and stay the night at The Billy the Kid Inn!
https://palsofbillythekidhistoricalsociety.com/old-fort-sumner/
Anton Chico
The Pecos 8 Mile. Anton Chico.
By J.Young
In autumn of 1879, as per the historical accounts, there was a violation of the promise made by Governor Wallace, which led Billy the Kid and his associates to move towards the Eastern side of Lincoln. Taking The Pecos as their home base, they engaged solely in the activity of rustling. It is believed that during that time, the infamous Billy the Kid made a statement, mentioning that he would continue to reside in the area, and earn his livelihood through irregular means. This information provides us with vital knowledge regarding the actions and attitudes of this notorious figure during this specific period.
The organized attempts started and horses were being unlawfully taken along the southern area of Pecos River and then transported to Tascosa, a bustling town located in the panhandle of Texas. Furthermore, after leaving Texas, LX and LIT ranches became their next targets for stealing the cattle and driving them to Pat Coughlan, also known as “The King of Tularosa” in New Mexico. Mr. Coughlan would subsequently accept the “Kids” stock regardless of its origin to ensure proper fulfillment of his contract with the Army for the Mescalero tribes.The Pecos Valley became “Hot”
Located approximately 30 miles south of Las Vegas, along the picturesque Pecos River, lies an Eight Mile Stretch comprising of 7 settlements – Tecolotito, Upper Anton Chico, Anton Chico, Llano Viejo, La Loma, Llano Medio, Dilia, and Colonias. Among these, Anton Chico, perched at an impressive elevation of 5,253 feet, is the largest settlement. These settlements would become the closest in the Territory to the Great Plains.
New Mexico was referred to as Nuevo, Mexico from 1598 until 1848, prior to becoming a part of the United States. A peace treaty was signed between the Comanches and Spanish settlers in 1786, which granted settlers permission to migrate up the Rio Grande valley and settle near the Pecos river.
On May 2, 1822, Facundo Melgares granted the Anton Chico Land Grant to the people of Nuevo. The grant, consisting of 378,537 acres, was signed a year and a half later. Salvatore Tapia and around thirty-five other petitioners requested the land grant, and it was awarded to them under the condition that the grantees take up residence on the land, develop it for future settlers, and defend it.
In 1827, the settlers had to vacate the region as a result of recurrent Indian assaults. Despite the treaty that was agreed upon with the Comanche, it appeared that these attacks were motivated by a desire for revenge.
In the early 1830s, an extensive Spanish resettlement occurred, resulting in the construction of a Torreon in La Loma. The purpose of the Torreon was to provide defense against frequent Comanche raids and attacks. The locals fortified their homes with high walls and built a plaza within the vicinity. Anton Chico was then established as the most extensive settlement out of the seven, and by the 1840s, the population grew to approximately 250 residents residing along the 8-mile stretch.
In 1850, Nuevo was officially recognized as New Mexico, a territory of the United States. During the surveying of the Anton land grant, Mr. Kendall has provided a thorough description of the neighboring village. The village of Anton Chico has approximately two or three hundred inhabitants and is constructed in a square shape with housing units located on the internal side. Despite having entrances on the outer side, they are safeguarded by sturdy doors. The houses have a single story and are built using adobes, large sun-dried bricks, with flat tops. However, they do not contain windows or floors; hence, in terms of comfort and convenience, they are slightly better than the modest wigwams of native Indians. Overall, Mr. Kendall’s report provides valuable insight into the infrastructure and living conditions of the Anton Chico community.
Anton Chico eventually became a popular trading place for bison Hunters and Comancheros (Traders with the Comanche tribe). In 1878 Anton Chico unveiled its large new church called the San Jose.
Anton Chico, historically significant for its association with the infamous outlaw Billy the Kid, drew him to the region in 1879. The town functioned as a probable location for him to dispose of his stolen livestock, apart from being his refuge. Sources indicate that he was known to frequent the basement of Ambercrombie’s Store in Anton Chico, where he perhaps laid low.
On January 14th, 1880, Pat Garrett and Barney Mason exchanged nuptials with their beloved wives in a double wedding at The San Jose Church. Similarly, on January 26th, 1880, George William Robert and Sally Chisum tied the knot at the prominent church.
Just after the capture of Billy the Kid by Pat Garrett’s Posse at Stinking Springs, the law enforcement officials were situated at Anton Chico during the evening of Christmas Eve. At precisely midnight, the officials fired their pistols in celebration of the holiday season.
Anton Chico had about 900 residents in the 1890s, its highest population ever. It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1986. Today, only about 200 people live in the area.
Ah, stepping into this place is like taking a time machine back to the days of old – complete with that delightful feeling of being watched by unseen eyes!
For more…
https://palsofbillythekidhistoricalsociety.com/anton-chico/
Las Vegas
Las Vegas.
Las Vegas
By J.Young
At the foot of the Sangre de Cristo mountains and 65 miles east of Santa Fe, at elevation 6424 feet above sea level is the original “Sin City”, the city of Las Vegas, New Mexico. Established through a Spanish land grant in 1835. It was the last Spanish colony built in North America and was originally named Nuestra Senora de los Dolores De Las Vegas Grandes (our lady sorrows of the great Meadows) by the early settlers. At first the settlement served also as a fort. It was designed to defend itself from attacks from the Apache Indians. One story flat adobe houses surrounded a large Central Plaza.
First and most importantly, a water supply was constructed. A large ditch called the Acequia Madre ran off the Gallinas river, which reports say still winds behind buildings on the old Plaza and waters the gardens on the western portion of town today.
In 1846 just after the US and Mexico went to war General Stephen W Kearney and a large army arrived at Las Vegas in April 1846. When they arrived they found around 1,500 Spanish settlers in town and surrounding the area. The army surrounded the town placing cannons pointing at the plaza and the people of the Town surrendered. The Army confiscated the home of Hilario Gonzalez, using his home as their barracks. The army stayed for five years, leaving in 1851 moving about 20 miles north of Las Vegas to the newly built Fort Union, as well as another location at Fort Lunas. Its purpose was to protect the settlers coming in on the Santa Fe Trail to Las Vegas and Santa Fe from further Apache raids.
Miguel A Romero, a native of Spain and his father Francisco, were some of the first settlers at Las Vegas and built the very first homes there. The town began to develop and many traders, prospectors and travelers stopped at Las Vegas along the Santa Fe Trail. It was the first town after 600 miles of sucking dirt on the road from Kansas. Travelers demanded whiskey, women and a hot bath and the town was ready to accommodate. Las Vegas became very popular and in 1879, about 1 mile east of the plaza across the Gallinas River, railroad tracks were laid and the first train arrived at Las Vegas. Hundreds of town folks gathered to celebrate and a large settlement of tents and small cabins were built near the railroad. Soon large establishments were built and its commercial District became competitive to the West End Plaza. Las Vegas in all grew so large it rivaled Denver and El Paso in size of area.
It wasn’t long when about 6 trains a day stopped in Las Vegas. This brought in many curious eastern travelers, along with some outlaws, con artist murderers and thieves. The east end of town became rather rough by the new group of arrivals. Another group came to town from Dodge City and established themselves as peace officers; they were known as the Dodge City gang. It was made up of men such as JJ web, mysterious Dave Mather, Joe Carson, Dirty Dave Rudabaugh (Rodenbaugh)
and their leader Hoodoo Brown, who served as the Justice of the Peace. With Hoo-Doo calling the shots he placed Dave Rudabaugh (Rodenbaugh) as The City’s first chief of police. Tom Pickett served as the city’s Chief of Merchants Police.
Las Vegas became a home and a or frequent place to visit by people like; Doc Holliday, Big-Nose Kate, Jesse James, Billy the Kid, Bob Ford, Wyatt Earp, Rattlesnake Sam, Cock-Eyed Frank, Hook Nose Jim, Stuttering Tom, Durango Kid, Handsome Harry the Dancehall Rustler, Vicente Silva and his gang, and Belle Siddons (alias Monte Verde).
Doc Holliday is thought to have bought a saloon on Center Street (now East Lincoln ave) with partner JJ Web. But Doc didn’t stick around long, on July 19th 1879, Doc got into an argument with a local named Mike Gordon who was apparently very well liked. The two went out to the street to settle business. Doc, who was known as a polite man with a quick and deadly trigger finger said in a laid back, calm voice “start shooting whenever you would like” … a moment later Mike Gordon was dead with 3 three holes of hot lead in his belly. In retaliation for Mike Gordon the town folks and friends of Mike formed a mob to Lynch Doc. Doc got word and was able to leave town for good.
Robberies targeting stages carrying gold, silver and other valuable items were on the rise and occurring mostly in the Vegas area. Two stage robberies in August of 1879 and one train robbery. Many suspected that the perpetrators were members of their own police force; The Dodge City Gang. On August 18, 1879, a Barlow & Sanderson stagecoach was robbed by three masked men near the village of Tecolote. John Clancy, Jim Dunagan, and Antonio Lopez were arrested for the robbery, however, they were not convicted. Just a few weeks later on August 30, 1879, another Barlow and Sanderson stagecoach was held up. “Frank” Cady, “Slap Jack Bill”, “Bull Shit Jack”, and JJ Webb, all with ties to the Dodge City Gang, were arrested and charged with the second holdup. However, they too escaped conviction. Dave Rudabaugh would later confess to this crime in connection with Las Vegas Marshal Joe Carson and a man named Joseph Martin. On October 14, 1879, a train was robbed in the Las Vegas area by masked men. The robbers made off with $2,085, three pistols, and all the lanterns on the train. In mid–February of 1881, in an attempt to avoid trial on a capital offense, Dave Rudabaugh would plead guilty to the robbery..The townspeople were tired of violence and crime and posted this in Las Vegas optic on April 8th 1880:
TO MURDERERS CONFIDENCE MEN, THIEVES:
“The citizens of Las Vegas have tired of robbery, murder, and other crimes that have made this town a byword in every civilized community. They have resolved to put a stop to crime, if in attaining that end they have to forget the law and resort to a speedier justice than it will afford. All such characters are therefore, hereby notified, that they must either leave this town or conform themselves to the requirements of law, or they will be summarily dealt with. The flow of blood must and shall be stopped in this community, and the good citizens of both the old and new towns have determined to stop it, if they have to HANG by the strong arm of FORCE every violator of the law in this country.” – Vigilantes.
Shortly after July 14th 1881 the day of Billy the Kid’s supposed death. The Las Vegas optic mysteriously had an index finger in a jar of alcohol they claimed as Billy the Kid’s Here is an ad they put in:
“His finger is well-preserved in alcohol and has been viewed by many in our office today. If the rush continues we shall purchase a small tent and open a sideshow to which complimentary tickets will be issued to our personal friends.” -Las Vegas Optic
Crime was on an upswing again in Las Vegas, shootings were a regular occurrence and cattle rustling was getting out of control. Whole entire herds were disappearing!
Vincent Silva and his gang called The white caps or 40 Bandits or the Society of Bandits hung around and lived in town. Vincente Silva soon found out that a friend …maes was about to tell all about their wrong doings and called a nighttime meeting at his saloon with all the gang members present. At a so-called mock trial, the gang members judged Maes guilty and he was hanged during a snowstorm on a bridge over Gallinas Creek on October 22, 1892. When his body was found, a Coroner’s jury decided that he had been lynched for an unknown crime.
Afterward, Silva fled on October 26th to his hideout in the mountains near Los Alamos. While he was gone, he was indicted for horse and cattle stealing on November 7, 1892, and the Territorial Governor had offered $1,000 for his capture. Suspecting that his brother-in-law, Gabriel Sandoval, was going to inform on the gang for the lynching of Maes, he ordered him killed. Three crooked Lawmen and gang members, Jose Chavez y Chavez, Eugenio Alarid, and another.. shot and killed Sandoval in February 1893 and his body mysteriously disappeared.
Afterward, Silva’s wife began to ask numerous questions about her brother’s questionable disappearance and Silva decided that she too had to be killed. He then ordered his men to dig her a grave. However, as the men dug in, their discussion changed, As they were insulted with the offering of a tiny payment and decided that Silva was out of control. When Silva appeared with his wife’s body, the men robbed and murdered him, burying his body along with his wife’s. This officially ended the reign of Silva’s White Caps.
Teddy Roosevelt formed the Rough Riders In many of that group were made up of men from Las Vegas and the town hosted its first Roughriders reunions and was attended by Teddy Roosevelt the soon-to-be president at hotel La Castenada. Which still stands today. After sitting vacant and abandoned for years, the hotel was purchased in 2014 by Allan Affeldt with plans to renovate the historic property. It faces the railroad tracks on the 500 block of Railroad Avenue.
Today Las Vegas has about 900 buildings on the national register of historic places. including the Bridge Street and plaza areas where there is a designated Santa Fe Trail site.
https://palsofbillythekidhistoricalsociety.com/las-vegas/
Lincoln
La Placita del Río Bonito
Lincoln New Mexico
La Placita. Lincoln
By, Jason Young
Lincoln is cradled in the Bonito Valley between the Sacramento and Capitan Mountains. Its elevation is about 5,700 feet. Running along its Northern perimeter, is the Bonito River.
President Rutherford B. Hayes once called Lincoln’s street, “the most dangerous street in America ”. The town of Lincoln today probably owes its existence to Billy the Kid. But before Billy came onto the scene, and the events of the Lincoln County War, this area like many others areas was home to many different settlers over time. Most recently before the Spanish settlers were the Mescalero Apache. Spanish newcomers began arriving in 1849, just as New Mexico was becoming a territory of the United States. About 15 miles up the Bonito river the Army was busy building a new base of operations to be named Fort Stanton, after Captain Henry Stanton. The “New Mexicans” named their new home La Placita del Río Bonito. It was later shortened to La Placita.
The families that first settled, had to have come prepared. That first fall and winter they occupied LaPlacita was probably all construction, and dragging the ground soils to farm it in the spring. The village first consisted of a few Adobe buildings around the plaza sheltered by a thick circular stone tower known as the Torreon, built in 1855 to help the citizens defend themselves from the Apache. There were portholes all around it and the top had breastwork for firing through.The entire village was said to have fit inside the three story tower until it was safe to come out. Soon enough the town doubled in size and Lincoln’s road was stretched out to about a mile in length. The community of La Placita sprang to life.
By 1860 the Rio Bonito area, with La Placita at its heart, had about 275 citizens. About 50 households and 180 military personnel. During the Civil War, around 1861 the Army left the Bonita valley unprotected to go fight in the war. Many settlers, having no protection from the army, fled the area. The army returned almost a year later as did the Bonito Valley settlers to re-populate La Placita. During the next few years the Rio Bonito, Rio Ruidoso and upper Hondo valleys slowly filled up with new settlers. By the late 1860’s the town had about 400 people.
Many ex-army soldiers and officers from Fort Stanton decided to stake their futures in the wild lands of the Bonito Valley. Among them were: Major William Brady, Capt. Saturnina Baca, Corporal Jesus S. Sandoval, Christobal Chavez, Jose Torres, Juan Andres Silva, and many others.
In 1869 Captain Baca, L.G. Murphy, Major William Brady and Dr. J. Blazer introduced the Baca Bill creating Lincoln County. Legislators suggested that it be named Baca County but Captain Baca declined the honor, asking that it be named for the new President, Abraham Lincoln. La Placita was in the center of the county and was named the county seat and renamed Lincoln, thrusting the quiet little village into a busy town. Major Brady was appointed Lincoln’s first Sheriff. Many young men began to flock to the new territory, with free land up for grabs to anyone willing to develop it. This created a sense of urgency, at least to the willing opportunist…
When L.G. Murphy and partner Jimmy Dolan first settled in La Placita; they operated a small store in the middle of town, where the Tunstall store is now located. In 1872 Murphy had a Hotel built and named it The Lincoln Hotel. It would later be called the La Fonda and then Wortley Hotel and was briefly owned by Pat Garrett. In 1873, L.G. Murphy & Dolan established a large 2 story store in Lincoln called the Murphy store. Not only was it the “biggest” store in the county, it held civil offices including the town’s first post office. This deemed Murphy’s business as “essential”. Jesus Sandoval became the first mail carrier out of Lincoln and Dolan was set to be Postmaster.
The Murphy house also had a secret meeting room for the Freemasons accessible only up a ladder in the back.of the building. The big store became known as “the house” due to its Monopoly over commerce in the county. The Murphy house dominated the beef market and dry goods. They supplied nearby Tribes and Army Forts, as well as the citizens in the large county. It became the largest store in the county.
George Peppin, was a master stonemason and later served as Sheriff of Lincoln. Peppin built many of the homes in Lincoln such as Alex Mcsweens home, James Dolans, Dr. Woods, the big Murphy house, likely the San Juan church and many more.
Eventually Murphy and Dolan would add a partner, allowing him to “buy” his way in. He was John Riley. Riley was another man retired from Fort Stanton. Around 1875 Murphy’s health began to decline. Dolan and Riley became Murphy’s successors . Dolan seemed more of a fighter than a businessman, and didn’t understand “good ethics”. He was reckless and with Murphy gone and The House being under investigation for fraud began to see his business on the decline. The only power he had left was his bosses at The Santa Fe Ring who gave Dolan the use and impunity of the judicial system to work in his favor. Dolan would mostly rely on stolen beef to fill the contracts he was clinging on to mostly stolen from big cattle business man John Chisum near Roswell. About this time Dolan opened up a cow camp just on the south end of Chisum’s ranch. The intentions were obvious and to make things difficult The powers at hand had Lincoln County cut down so that Chisum’s and Dolan cow camp were just on the other side of the new county line that had not been established yet, leaving it practically lawless for a moment.
One fine day in March 1875 change came to town, in the form of man. A bystander recalls the man arriving in town, stepping out of a wagon boldy and loudly stating “I plan on making Lincoln my El Dorado!” His name was Alexander Mcsween. Mac became the first Attorney to set up residence in the County seat of Lincoln, at Lincoln. Mac quickly built an impressive amount of clients including John Chisum. Mac was also hired by James Dolan. While working a case for Dolan on a life insurance policy, Mcsween met John Tunstall in Santa Fe. He is a man from England looking to settle and invest in a business. Mcsween persuaded him to establish himself in Lincoln. Mcsween may have seen an honest man with money and thought, Lincoln could use a man like this.. Perhaps Mcsween, a god fearing man, while working with Dolan and his gang of sinners, realized he needed more stability in Lincoln, a godless town.
Mcsween also possibly sent a letter to the Pioneer Presbyterian Missions to request someone for some preachin’ and teachin’, both in which were much needed in Lincoln. Not to dismiss the teachings of community leader Juan Patron, but it was a growing town and need the proper and larger shelters for such activities. Doctor Ealy was sent to help set up the town’s first church and school. And with Tunstall on board, Mcsween may have thought there may be hope for Lincoln yet.
Although Lincoln has always had its fair share of troublemakers like horse thieves; Juan Gonzalez, Nica Meras and Jesus Largo or outlaws Juan Mes and his three brothers Paz, Jesus and Juanito. The outlaw brothers killed Oliver Thomas in Lincoln in December 1875. In response to the killing the 9th Cavalry from Fort Stanton was released to pursue them and killed 6 of their gang.
Now that John Tunstall had a ranch in the area, he needed a store. Before James Dolan realized what was happening he sold Mcsween the lots next to Mcsweens home including the old abandoned store, once owned by Dolan and Murphy. It would then become the Tunstall store. On the other side was an empty lot where Dr. Ealy’s church was to be built. It also included the Torreon and Saturnino Baca’s home.
Dolan was now in real trouble so to stay open, and began using mob-like tactics and price gouging. Not that they weren’t already… Citizens were always forced to pay high amounts for their needs while accepting little for the goods they were selling. but they then cut out the farmers raising stock and hired local guns to steal herds to fulfill the beef contracts. They began with Chisum’s herds and then Tunstalls.
But wait, back to the life insurance policy…It was the documents of Emil Fritz over a $7,000 life insurance policy that set up the stage for the Lincoln County War. Mcsween retrieved these funds and it wasn’t until Tunstall put his store in place that Dolan wanted the money from Mcsween of that life insurance policy, as he was the one to hire him. Dolan may have claimed Fritz was in debt that much to “the house, and was going to try and keep it. Mcsween said the proper recipients were in Germany and declined Dolan the money.
James Dolan used the fact that Mcsween still had not handed over the money, and had the law on his side and they served a writ of attachment on Tunstall’s property just on the basis that Mcsweens new office was inside Tunstall’s store. Making it appear that Mcsween and Tunstall were partners, when in fact they were not. Tunstall naturally showed some resistance to this act, and being wealthy, posed a serious risk for Dolan, costing Tunstall his life.
Long story short here, Tunstall was killed by Dolan’s henchman and for that The Lincoln County War was underway! Soon Sheriff Brady and Deputy in Hindman were shot down in Lincoln followed by a couple small shootouts leading to a five-day battle where the Tunstall/Mcsween men took positions in Lincoln’s buildings spread out throughout town. In the end Dolan’s men burned down Mcsween’s house and killed him as he came out. Most say that this was the end of the Lincoln County War. The Regulators had lost a hell of a fight, most skinned out into the night. But did they really lose? Dolan went bankrupt and foreclosed on his loan. Unfortunately, the foreclosed loan went to Thomas Catron, the head of the Santa Fe Ring, who were Dolans allies. James Dolan later ended up acquiring Tunstall’s old store and ranch property. I often wonder how Dolan slept at night in Tunstall’s old place. He took down Tunstall’s sign at the store, placing his own. Later the store became the Penfield station and later the state acquired it and restored the building to its original look. Most of the precipitants of the Lincoln County War scattered or had settled down except for Billy the Kid, who was still riding New Mexico Territory and refused to cower out. He was finally captured and brought to Lincoln and put on “death row” ; he escaped the Lincoln County courthouse where he was held, killing both guards.
Lincoln continued to serve the community as a supply Center for the ranchers and miners of the area. Dr. Ealy was never able to get his mission in Lincoln accomplished, but at least Lincoln got the church and schoolhouse they needed. The La Iglesia De San Juan Bautista (San Juan) was built in 1887, well after The Ealy’s left town.. By 1888 Lincoln grew to a population of about 800 and then from there it would slowly decrease when the railroad moved to nearby Carrizozo. The town began to decline in population and by 1909 lost its county seat status to Carrizozo.
The old Lincoln County courthouse then became a community center and later a school. They had sports teams and games, right out back of the courthouse. In 1937 the state of New Mexico gained control over the Old courthouse and began restoration and preservation work.
In January 1942, during World War 2, a month following the attack on Pearl Harbor, the population of Japanese-Americans living in the U.S. were placed on basically house arrest. The Japanese railroad workers and others of New Mexico were gathered and temporarily imprisoned on an old ranch on the outskirts of Lincoln known as the Raton ranch. During this time Lincoln was on lockdown. No school. ect. Fort Stanton was also being used to house captured Nazi and German sailors.
By 1960 Lincoln was classified as a national historical sight called The Lincoln historic district. It has become one of the most historic preserved towns in the U.S.. Most of these old buildings now serve as museums open to the public. The historic district contains around 45 structures, some privately owned. The old adobe and stone buildings were rebuilt and preserved as they appeared in the late 1800s. There are at least two museums open year round and four that open seasonally. In 2010 the population dwindled down to about 190.
If you’re visiting today, there is a fun little trail to walk as well as climbing up inside the old Torreon. The Tunstall store has the original shelving and cases and it displays original 19th century merchandise. Outback is an invisible graveyard, although there are many bodies buried there, Mcsween and Tunstall have the only markers. The courthouse where Billy made his escape is loaded with items to gawk at for hours. Exhibits inside show the buildings used as a store, residence, Masonic Lodge and later a courthouse, jail, and schoolhouse. There is also the San Juan mission Church, Dr. Woods house, the Montano store, the sad empty lot of Mcseens and more. The San Juan is open to the public for viewing. The graveyard with some famous names is just outside town on the east. In the past you could have lunch and stay the night at the Wortley hotel, Patron house or the Dolan house. The Dolan house, Ellis House and Wortley are currently closed for business.The Wortley Hotel and Dolan House are currently on the market for sale.
https://palsofbillythekidhistoricalsociety.com/lincoln-new-mexico/
San Patricio
San Patricio, Helter-Skelter!
By Jason Young
About six miles southeast of Lincoln and just west of the old Fritz ranch near Hondo, is San Patricio, sitting at an elevation of 5,436 feet . Spanish settlers moved into the area in 1850, causing some friction with the local Apache. In 1870 the little town was first named Ruidoso. Named after Rio Ruidoso. It was constructed of about 15 to 20 scattered homes, a school and a church, on a single Road. The buildings were built to withstand attacks from the Apache. The walls were a very thick adobe. The roofs of these homes were flat, known as rooftop gardens. The rooftops also had breastwork and portholes at the surrounding perimeters, a good measure for defense against Apache attacks. Nearby Lincoln followed a similar suit; they also had the Torreon for defense. In 1875 a Catholic Church, La Iglesia de San Patricio, was built on the west end of town.The name of the town was changed to San Patricio. The name possibly originates from Saint Patrick’s battalion, a foreign legion of some sort, that was made up of a couple hundred Irish Immigrants. The battalion fought alongside the Mexican Army against the United States in 1846. The men were executed in a mass hanging. They are still praised today.
In 1878 San Patricio became occupied by the Lincoln County Regulators. Many of these men, including Alexander Mcsween, could not return to their homes, or to Lincoln. The new Sheriff, with a large gang of local rustlers, occupied Lincoln. The Regulators camped out or stayed at their allies’ farms. It was safer for them to be in numbers. They made San Patricio their homebase. Sleeping on the rooftops and loafing around town. According to George Coe, Fred Waite and Charlie Bowdre had homes in San Patricio. It is rumored that Billy may have had a house here too. The boys began having bailes every Saturday night in San Patricio. George and Frank Coe had a special talent with their fiddles, and probably fiddled those Saturday nights, until the strings were red hot.
George Peppin, Dolan’s new Sheriff, was sending many different parties to get at the Regulators. He had the Rio Grande posse, Jesse Evans’ gang and the Santa Fe ring to back him up, he was looking to exterminate Alex Mcsween and the Regulators.
In the third week of June, Frank and George Coe, started to ride down to Picacho, about 10 miles southeast of San Patricio to meet Billy and some others who were coming up from the Chisum Ranch. Billy had been there to de-stress and lay low since after the killings of Morton, Baker, McCloskey, Sheriff Brady and Buckshot Roberts. After riding only about a mile out of San Patricio, near the Fritz Ranch and close to where Regulator captain Frank Mcnabb was killed, another ambush was waiting.
Frank Coe recalls the attack;
“As we were following down the road that led along the valley we were fired upon as we approached some narrows. They had their horses hidden, and they fired 15 or 20 shots at us. We were not very far off, but they got just one good shot at us before we got around the point. We whirled our horses and ran back up the river and started across it and made a stand in a canyon, almost opposite San Patricio, but we had hit a deep hole in the river and our horses went under. We ran on up the river to make a stand and the other bunch backed off. They thought our whole party was there. John Kinney, a noted bully from the Rio grande led them. They heard of this trouble here (from Peppin) and flocked to get into the game.”
After getting back on course, The Coes caught up with Billy and on the way back to San Patricio, they told him about the action he just missed.
It was Saturday night, June 22nd but the boys decided against their traditional weekly baile, What they did not know was that Sheriff Peppin was planning a party for them anyway. After finding out where the Regulators were posted up, the determined Peppin sent a posse on a reconnaissance in San Patricio at dusk. The posse probably masked, quietly hitched their horses on the edge of town and crept in. Moving around in the darkness the intruders were discovered. Gun smoke and Sparks were about to light up the night.
George Coe remembers that particular night;
“We constantly expected an attack and had guards posted. These fellows had located the enemies horses in a dry arroyo that skirted the town, they left a few Mexicans to hold their horses, while they went out to take the town,(a surprise attack) our guards discovered some stray Mexicans snooping around in the lower part of town and reported it to Brown and Waite who got busy at once, they rounded up the Mexicans and locked them up. They begin further investigations when they find the town full of strangers and begin firing at them rapidly. The fusillade aroused us fellows on the roofs at the other end of town, and we too, went into action. It was just before daybreak, and we were shooting in the dark at random. Nevertheless we put the Invaders On The run. They beat a hasty retreat when they found they had missed their guess when it came to taking this town by storm, and we pursued them as they fled. When morning came, we went out to look over the spoils of the battle. We found no dead men, but one dead horse with a beautiful new saddle on his back and a bloody glove. Billy the Kid immediately laid claim to the saddle, as he had never replaced the saddle he had lost previously. There were evidently one or two men or horses wounded, but they did not return to even the score they had plenty.”
The attempted night attack was very quick and confusing, a real helter-skelter event. The Regulators then made plans to skin out Billy the Kid retreated with a couple others to Tunstall’s ranch before meeting later at Chisum’s ranch on the fourth of July. Little did they know at that time of departure that San Patricio was about to be ransacked.
The defeated posse led by Jack Long, ran back crying to Peppin. He told of the sparks that flew through the darkness just hours earlier, killing his horse.
On July 3rd, 1878, Peppin sent a larger party to San Patricio, not sure if Peppin himself was there, but he did claim that he would turn Regulator supporters out of their homes and confiscate their property. Once the terrorizers arrived at San Patricio, they began firing shots into the air and at citizens farming the fields. They smashed in their windows and kicked in their doors. The store was looted, what the posse didn’t take for themselves they threw onto the street . They stole 400 dollars from a woman and killed Mcsweens friend’s horse before leaving the ravaged town and terrified citizens in anguish.
Later, on the brighter side of San Patricio, in the early 1930’s a couple moved to San Patricio that would paint the town in a new picture…literally.
Artists John Hurd and Henriette Wyeth settled on what started as 40 acres and grew at San Patricio, and began painting pictures of his surroundings in San Patricio and became famous for his paintings of New Mexico’s beautiful landscapes. .
In 1940 John Hurd became the first to portray Billy the Kid in Lincoln’s annual Billy the Kid pageant and Old Lincoln days. The festival still carries on every year in August as people come from all around the country and probably the world to attend.
.In 1984,Hurd died from pneumonia and complications due to Alzheimer Disease. He was cremated. Some of his ashes were scattered and the remainder of his remains were buried at his home,San Patricio.
Now along the Billy the Kid Trail Byway, San Patricio has Hurd’s Art Gallery and Hurd’s guest houses. The old church and cemetery has plenty of beautiful scenery
https://palsofbillythekidhistoricalsociety.com/san-patricio/
Los Portales
Los Portales
Los Portales, also known as “Billy’s Castle,” has a rich history worth exploring. According to Pat Garrett’s book in 1880, the site was capable of providing a substantial water supply for at least one thousand head of cattle, making it an attractive location for Billy Bonney and Charlie Bowdre to operate a stageline holding station, as they had wished. The area also served as a base for collecting cattle that had drifted from the Texas Panhandle. Today, some of the caves stand at eye level, while others have been eroded over time. A once-functional windmill was installed when the springs dried up, but eventually abandoned due to the continued lowering of the water table. It is worth noting that Pat Garrett had a hand in the irrigation of eastern New Mexico. While the site is challenging to locate, a historic marker on Highway 70, northeast of Portales can guide you there.
https://palsofbillythekidhistoricalsociety.com/portales/
